There is an excellent article on injector removal and installation on Fred's Page (link is below). You should learn that procedure first before trying any of this. Any questions ask a forum member, or drop me an E-mail.

http://pics2.tdiclub.com/pdf/injector_install_howto.pdf

Changing the nozzles will be a piece of cake.

If you don't feel comfortable doing it, DON'T do it. Call us for limited free technical support at 503-975-5512

[ If you need extensive technical, install or diagnostic support we are proud to be able to offer these services at $7.50 per 15 minute session.]

  

If, however, you want to perform the swap yourself, it is very simple to do.

Tools needed:

Two (2) 15mm wrenches, or one (15) 15mm wrench and a vise with two (2) 17mm, 19mm, or 3/4" nuts to use as spacers btween the flat spots on the injector bodies and the vise jaws.

A MOUNTED VISE IS ABSOLUTELY REQUIRED TO DO THIS JOB PROPERLY!!!!! It will save you much frustration.

Some diesel fuel to use as cleaner, or brake cleaner/carb cleaner
some clean rags
an old toothbrush

Set up a work area by laying clean rags down. Be aware that little splashes of diesel fuel will emerge from the injector as bits are removed. It would really suck to get diesel in your wife's new white shag rug!! 

The first thing to do is to unscrew the holder nut. It will take some elbow grease!!! Be careful not to break off the return nipples by accidentally banging against something. You must use a vice to stabilize the nozzle holder while you unscrew the retaining nut. Did I mention THE VISE IS ABSOLUTELY REQUIRED!?:

Once it is mounted in the vise, with the nozzle and retaining nut pointed straight up, leave it there until you are done mounting and torquing the new nozzle. Your life will be much easier, trust me.

Be careful not to let all the little pieces inside fall out. I should say: BE VERY CAREFUL.

Once you get the retaining nut busted loose, it should be easy to unscrew by hand or with some light wrench effort. Doing this by hand helps you get a feel for when you are done unscrewing it, and it is easier to keep all the parts in place this way. 

It is easy to reassemble the injector the wrong way. But if you keep everything but the nozzle and retaining nut in place there is no possible way to do it wrong.

There is a spacer with a bushing inside between the nozzle and holder... be careful because this thing likes to fall off, sending the little bushing bouncing away.  You could remove the spacer to give it a light cleaning with your diesel fuel and then set it aside somewhere clean so it does not get lost or dirty. Or better yet JUST LEAVE IT WHERE IT IS!

I know there is a strong tempation at this point to take it all apart and marvel at all the little pieces, but please resist. RESIST THE TEMPTATION to fiddle with the insides. You will be happier in the end.)

Once the nozzle and nut are off, it may take a little tap on the nut to get the copper heat shield washer loose. I rested the tip perpendicular on a rag placed over a hard surface and gave the top of the nut a tap.

All the parts you just took off will be nice and sooty and should be cleaned. I used BioDiesel. You can use the old toothbrush dipped in diesel to clean the threads on the nut and holder after the nut gets a good soak in the diesel. There is no reason to clean the parts inside the holder, so just clean the threads with the toothbrush dipped in diesel, being careful to keep the internals clean.

A key to getting a good seal and proper alignment is to have the seating surfaces inside the nut spotless.

Re-assembly should be pretty straight-forward. There is only one way the parts can go together because there are little offset guide pins on the nozzle and its connections to the holder. You will see when you open it.

Just position the nozzle on the washer aligning it in the index holes, and screw the nut down.

Be very careful not to brush the nozzle tip because this will damage it. There is no reason to clean it anyway, because it's new, right?

If you did a good job cleaning the threads on the holder and nut, it will be easy to screw the nut down by hand. Once it stops at as far as you can hand-tighten it, next is the step that is critical for correct pre-load on the springs. It is best to have the diesel shop do the final tightening and then pop-test it. If you want to do it yourself, though... It really does not need to be cranked down hard. Just turn it to the end of the threads (THIS is why it is important to give them a good cleaning!!)

Once you reach the end of the threads turn the nut another 30 degrees and you are done. This will probably be all you can get on it with it mounted in a good strong vise and a decent wrench. No cheater bars!
 
The injectors can be pop-tested and balanced by us, then you can be sure they are set right and not leaking. Unless you know you have a problem with h=your injectors, or you have swapped an injector and no longer have a matched set: it is not absolutely for any reason other than a little reassurance.

Just put the Bosio nozzles back in and go enjoy the results of your effort.

I will say again: dont fool with the internals... If you mess with the insides the injector may not work correctly.

Once you are finished with all four, then every thing is ready, and you can just put the reassembled injectors back in the car. Off you go!

Remember to reinstall the copper heat shield washers.

Re-installation Hint:

If the injector lines are properly aligned, the flare nut should freewheel right to its stop. If it doesn't screw down easily, back it off, and press the ferrule into its seat with one hand while you spin the nut with the other.

It will take a few cranks to re-fill the injector lines with fuel before the motor will start, and then it may sputter for a moment while the air pockets get released. Don't be alarmed if it doesn't start right away! Simply loosen 2 of the injector lines at the injector SLIGHTLY and wrap a rag around them to contain any spray. crank a few times, re-tighten the lines, and it should start without too much more drama. There may be some sputtering or rough running for a few moments, but then you will have a strong, and smooth running motor. Enjoy. Then you can talk to us about our Q Loader Flash Programmer so you can chip your car!